Shavano…Again…and again…and again

I have climbed Mt Shavano…3 times. Its not that Mt Shavano is bad, ugly, or unpleasant. It just has the unfortunate distinction of being located in the Sawatch mountain range. Home to some of the longest, steepest, hottest, and at times…distressingly monotonous peaks in Colorado.

The first time I climbed Shavano was August 2002. When me and a climbing partner arrived at the summit the weather was a little iffy and we looked over at Tabaguache and said, “naaaahhh.”

I next climbed Shavano in June 2006 with fellow Platinum Team member Mike O’Hearn. On that day Shavano and Tabaguache became my first double 14er summit hike. We had great weather and the climb was a blast.

So why would I climb Shavano again you might ask? Well, we usually kick off the climbing season with a warm up hike up, say, Bierstadt. This year however as Don and I looked over our portfolio of unclimbed mountains Don asked if we could climb something he had not yet climbed. As it was intended to be a warm up anyway, I thought, “what the heck.” and suggested Shavano with an option for Tabaguache.

I though that we would have a 50/50 chance at best to climb to Shavano’s summit given that it was still early in the season. It was still May. I thought there may be too much snow on the trail although I knew the road to the trailhead was open through trailhead reports.

So on Friday afternoon Don and I set off towards the Shavano trailhead. We arrived a little early. About 4ish I think. We set up camp and instead of sitting around and staring at each other Don and I decided to do some exploring.

From our exploring near the campsite and the drive in we could see that there was no snow in the lower areas. We could however see some snow fields higher up on the mountain and the Angel of Shavano was still well developed.

Our Campsite Conveniently Located at the Trailhead

It finally got late enough in the evening for us to eat our freeze-dried dinners. We discussed climbing strategy, organized our gear, and finally got tired enough to turn in.

The next morning we were on the trail by about 6AM. The weather was forecast to be perfect although a little breezy.

A Beautiful Aspen Stand Near The Trailhead

We arrived at the trail register and signed in. The reregister was torn to pieces and missing most of its bulk. People had been writing in their names wherever there was a scrap of room. The register had not been changed in months.

You Never Know Who You Might Meet on a Hike. Look at the Name In the Upper Right - B. Midddlebrook. Webmaster of the 14ers.com Site

Don and I climbed up through the thick pine forest. At times, because of the snow, the trail was hard to find. I had been up this mountain 2 times previously and never remembered that the trail was hard to find. As we got closer to tree line the trail became more distinct.

As we hiked higher there were more frequent and larger snow fields. None of these required snow shoes but gaitors, which we had on, were well advised. We plodded our way along the trail crossing the occasional snow fields and finally made it to the long traverse that leads you to the saddle South of the summit.

Near Tree Line and Some of the First Snow Patches We Encountered Around 12,000 feet

At this point Don and I elected to climb up the Angels “head” at the summit base (around 13,200 feet) and climb directly up the South face.

A Look Along the Traverse With the Saddle (center background) and the Angel Just Below the Saddle

As Don and I arrived at the Angel’s “head” we turned North and headed directly to the summit grinding steeply upwards.

Don Climbs the Angel Directly Towards Shavano’s Summit, Which is Just Visible Over the Slope at Top Center

 

Two Climbers Make Their Way up the Steep Slope Towards the Summit. Snow Fields and the Green Pine Forest are Far Below.

After about 40 more minutes of steep climbing Don and I arrived at the snow covered summit. The weather was perfect with a strong chilly breeze blowing.

Don Takes In the Vast and Magnificent Views from the Summit

This was an extremely clear day. From Shavano we could see all the way down the San Luis Valley to Blanca Peak. It was really incredible.

Me, On My First 14er of 2010

 

A Snowy But Beautiful Look Towards the North From the Summit

Don and I looked over to Tabaguache. Unfortunately, while the weather was great, the entire route between Shavano and Tabaguache was totally snowed in. I had very little motivation to head over to Tabby. By very little I mean nearly zero. Between that and the snowy conditions we bailed on Tabby to come back and bag another day. At least for Don.

The hike back to the trailhead was uneventful although it was unseasonable hot. It seems like no matter how dense the forest cover you are always roasting in the afternoon sun hiking back to the trailhead. We arrived back at camp around 2:30 p.m. We packed up camp and set off for the Coyote Cafe near Buna Vista for a celebratory burrito. It was a great start to the 2010 season.

GPS Track for the Shavano Climb

Summiting Sniktau In January, Its Like a Little Bit of Everest (sort of)

Ah it was good to get out again. It had been months since I had been in the mountains and I had been trying to hike Mt. Sniktau for weeks. I wanted to climb this peak on New Years eve but the weather simply would not cooperate. But finally it all looked good for Jan 9.

I would be hiking with a new partner. John Nibarger. Don (my usual climbing partner) was unfortunately not available and John and I wanted to get out. So when the weather cleared, we were off.

John and I wanted to get out early to avoid ski traffic and to catch the sunrise. We left around 5ish and made it to Loveland Pass about 6:30. Another 30 minutes of getting our gear on and we were ready to walk. We were just a little late to catch the sun where we wanted it but we still got a great sunrise.

Sunrise from Loveland Pass looking South towards Keystone

John and I ground our way up the nearly 900 feet to the ridge from the pass. Its always fun on this hike to hop out of your car and grind up 900 feet. We attained the top of the ridge in a relatively short time except for several photo stops on the way up.

The Top of the Ridge at Just Under 13,000 feet. The Sun is Just Rising Above Torreys Peak

We turned North and headed along the ridge towards a few sub-peaks, another 13er, and finally Sniktau. The temperature was around 0 degrees F and the winds were light to moderate. The sky was brilliantly clear.

John with the Snow Covered Backdrop

As long as you were moving it was not too cold. Actually, for Sniktau in the Winter, the weather was incredible.

We ascended the final 13er before Sniktau and headed down the last saddle. From here it was a straight forward climb through hard pack snow, scoured rock, and sastrugi.

Mt. Sniktau Rises in the Distance from its Neighboring 13er

We began the relatively easy climb up through the snow and rock. We were cautious not to get too close to the cornice to the right of our route. From the bottom of the saddle it was relatively easy to pick out  a line to the summit. The snow was all solid. John cut up towards the right side staying mostly in snow.

John Cuts Up a Direct Line to the Summit Just above the Rocks

I took a line to the left through the rocks more on the trail but it did not really matter. It was all solid.

After a few minutes of climbing the final pitch we were nearly on the summit. The weather was still great. Cold and breezy at times but clear. We popped up on to the summit about 90 minutes after leaving the trail head.

John Summits at Around 9:30 AM

John got to the summit a bit before me as I hung back to breath and take pictures. It was a great day and a fantastic climb.

View From the Top. Grizzly Peak, (foreground left) and Cupid (foreground center)

 

John at the Summit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Me at the Summit…Yeah!

The return climb was pretty straight forward following our ascent path. It was still cold but rapidly warmed up as we descended from the ridge back down to Loveland Pass. It actually got warm enough that I had to take off my gloves and loosen my jacket. At this time the pass was packed with people, tourists, skiers a plenty. It was about 11AM and John and I were headed to Tommyknockers for a beer and lunch.

Tommyknockers in Idaho Springs. It was a Lot More Crowded When we Left at about 12:30

James Peak – It Surprisingly Provides a Lot of Solitude…Above the Glacier

James Peak is a solid hike. It has a lot logistically going for it. Its close to Denver, and it has a paved road all the way to its St. Marys trailhead. It even has paid parking and a crapper at the trailhead.

But its also a great scenic hike as well. It is not particularly difficult and certainly nothing technical, at least on its normal route. But the views afforded from James Peak’s broad summit are outstanding stretching North to Longs Peak and South along the Skyline Traverse (Parry, Eva, Flora, and Co Mines Peaks) and beyond to Grays/Torreys and Evans. Quite a lot to take in actually on a clear day as we had.

Joining the great ranks of the unemployed recently, I took it upon myself, when not involved in the activities of finding a new job, to take a least a little free time for some hiking. I was originally going to do this hike during the week. But James had been discussed as the perfect reunion hike for my Spring Wilderness Trekking School (WTS) class so I thought I would try it on a weekend and see who I could rope in with me. So, with short notice I sent the invite out to the class. Unfortunately, on such short notice only one of my ex-pupils, Elizabeth, was able to make the hike.
I have only been to St. Marys in the early

Spring when the glacier (to be geographically correct I should note here that St. Marys is not really a glacier but rather a permanent snow field) is in full form with a hefty load of snow. Actually, several times I have been to the glacier, usually for WTS Snow Day, the snow load was actually being added to by a winter storm with winds howling.
Elizabeth (E) and I met at 5:30am and arrived at the paid parking around 6:30am. Right on our schedule. We got our gear together and departed towards the trail head.

We trudged up the road following the trail that looked unfamiliar to me as it had no snow. As we arrived at the St. Marys Lake we were greeted by a site that I have never seen (and hope never to see again) in the mountains.

There was a large group of about 20 guys, say around college age or so. They all looked normal…except for two guys who were apparently naked, signing, and doing a little dance.

Now mind you I don't often pine to look at naked guys (never actually) but this was like a train wreck. I was psychologically compelled to look. Then I noticed that the two guys were not really naked. They were mostly naked but they had on skin colored underwear.

So onward E and I hiked past this unusual spectacle as the two almost naked guys kept up their singing and dancing.

We could both see that the glacier was substantially smaller than in the early spring and provided access to its upper reaches on rock on the glacier’s right side.
 

A Much Reduced St. Marys Glacier Accentuated by Fall Color

We climbed to the base of the glacier and decided to climb up the rocks on the glacier’s right. The “snow” at this time of day was solid ice and didn't offer a very good purchase.

It was windy from the lake up to the lower portion of the glacier. I began to worry that it would be just a heck of a windy day up higher and particularly on the peak.

The Remnants of St. Marys in Late Summer

There was a faint but followable trail on the right side of the snow so E and I made out way up on rock instead of ice. The trail was descent if not hard to follow at times but did get you up the steepest portion of this climb quickly.

The Upper Portion of the Glacier Narrows Considerably Before Disappearing

The glacier continues up its steep slope becoming progressively narrower until it finally peters out all together. From here E and I simply climbed out of the snowless gully and popped out onto the relatively vast and level “Jamaica Plain.”

James Peak Finally Visible (on right) From the Broad and Flat Jamaica Plan

So far E and I had only seen the people at St. Marys Lake and one other hiker who was heading up the glacier. Solitude indeed. The wind had become calm. The morning light was great. And the temps cool. It looked to be a great day.
E and I crossed the plain at a

good clip. The only tricky part of this hike is crossing a road that bisects Jamaica Plain. I am not sure why this was unclear to me but the trail was not abundantly obvious after crossing the road. We could see the trail in the distance and some signage. So I just headed for the sign and picked up the trail easily and headed of towards the peak in the distance.

After crossing the plain the trail cuts to the Southwest to a steep overlook of Loch Lomond, Ice, Ohman, Stewart, and Reynolds Lakes. All magnificent hanging lakes tucked into a glacial gorge. The view into the gorge and these lakes is rugged and magnificent.

Ice Lake Just Visible Nestled Against the Base of Mt. Bancroft

We continued through 12,600 feet up the sloping side of James Peak following the great trail towards the summit now well within view. The weather was still perfect. It was a little breezy and chilly. While comfortable for hiking we both had to wear gloves.

The Weather Still Perfect. Cairns Mark the Great Trail to James Peak Summit in the Near Distance

The last bit of the climb, while steeper just below the summit is really not that difficult. This 8 mile round trip hike really doles out the 2,900 feet of elevation gain gently.

E and I motored efficiently up this last section and hiked right on up to the broad sloping summit. It was just before 10am as we walked onto the summit. We found a rather large stone shelter, put our gear down, and meandered about the summit taking in the views and snapping images.

This was E’s first 13er and she was quite pleased. She had done great.

Elizabeth has a Rare Outburst of Emotion as She Celebrates Her First 13er

And the Summit Shot With Both of Us, 13,294 Feet

We both relaxed, ate, and took in the incredible views and the fine weather. It was till only a  bit after 10:00am and we had the summit to ourselves, for the time being.

The View to the South. Bancroft in the Foreground and Grays and Torreys Way Out in the Background

After about 30 minutes a couple came up to the summit with two dogs. They made a bee line for another shelter on the summit and settled in. Another person showed up shortly after that with yet another dog. As E and I did not have a dog we felt uncomfortable and decided it was time to head back to the glacier.

The trip down was great. Relatively easy hiking, great weather, and good company. We had the same trouble finding the trail as it crossed the jeep road, which at this time of day had jeeps on it. We corrected our navigational errors and were soon back on the trail heading back to the glacier.

We descended towards St. Marys Lake. This time we stayed on the actual glacier as the snow/ice had softened in the sun and provided a bit easier walking than the loose talus and scree.

As we descended towards the lake we were surprised to see a bunch of people. All sorts. No mostly naked frat boys. But a rather broad cross section of outdoor enthusiasts from families to groups heading up the glacier for a few moments of summer skiing. It was actually quite crowded.

The views of St Marys Lake, The glacier, and some Fall aspens were beautiful.

St. Marys Over the Toe of the Glacier in Late Morning

Fall Colors Accent an Already Incredible View

We walked on out to the truck and headed into Idaho Springs for a beer and lunch at Tommyknockers. A great finish.

James Peak is really a great hike. E and I had a fantastic time hiking together and sharing a relaxed scenic outdoor adventure. Good Times!

GPS Track Data for the James Peak Hike. Red is Route Up. Blue Route Down.

Pikes Peak – There Really is a Coffee (and Donut) Shop On Top

I think everyone has joked about the proverbial “Coffee Shop” at the top of any given 14er that one happens to be climbing. The funniest part of the joke now, is that on top of Pikes Peak there really is a coffee shop…and a donut shop, and soup/chili in a bread bowl cafe, and a full on gift shop…

When we decided to climb Pikes I was prepared for a bizarre mix of 14er climbing and kitschy Park Service marketing and sales. And actually we did get all of that. But, I was not expecting the beauty and uniqueness that the Crags to Pikes summit hike delivered. While the attainment of the final summit is truly an exercise in surreal outdoor activities, Pikes is ultimately a very worthy hike.

Don and I left the Denver area relatively early on August 28th as we wanted to get a campsite at the Crags Campground. Being a Friday, we thought that the spots may go fast.

We arrived around 4ish and found a great camp spot. Don and I set up our tents and generally got everything set up. It was a really nice spot near a small stream. We had time before dinner so we both kicked back for a bit and and relaxed and did some reading.

Don and I Relax in Some Lounge Chairs. Ahhhhh…Camping

Around 5:00pm we both headed into Woodland Park for dinner. We returned to the camp site and eventually headed into our respective tents for a 5am wakeup call.

The forecast for the 29th was generally good with the familiar prediction of thunderstorms after 12pm. We wanted to get started early so that we would be out of the donut shop by noon to avoid any thunderstorms while we were still near the summit.

Don Geared Up and Waiting (Impatiently) at the Trailhead

We unnecessarily drove the few hundred yards from our camp site to the Crags Campground Trailhead. Even at this early hour all the parking spots were taken and we had to park along the road.

Oddly there were a few camp sites immediately next to the trailhead parking area. While the camp sites were indeed esthetically pleasing, I can’t imagine how miserable it would be to have throngs of hikers and their vehicles parading just a few feet from your head. But hey…Its only $12.00 bucks.

We started the hike through some very pleasant pine forest as we gently ascended towards the summit, still miles (many miles) away.

Well Watered Pine Forest Near the Beginning of the Hike from the Crags

The trail eventually starts to climb steeply as it nears tree line. It winds and switch-backs around some very beautiful scenery. I don't particularly like to hike that much in the trees. But this trail and setting was rather pleasant.

An Interesting, Rocky, and Beautiful Hike in Tree line

The Crags Trail Finally Busts Out Above Tree Line But there is Still Plenty of Steep Hiking Ahead

Don and I climbed steeply in this section and finally broke out from tree line. There are two steep sections on the Crags Trail. These two steep sections are separated by rather generous and generally flat hiking sections. The first steep section starts below tree line and leads to a saddle at around 12,500 feet. The second steep section is just below the summit.

Looking Back Towards Tree Line From Below the Saddle near 12,500 Feet

Looking up at the Saddle with Pikes Peak Summit Just Visible Poking Up in the Distance

We attained the saddle and finally had a good view at of Pikes Peak Summit. This next approximately two mile section stretches from the saddle all the way to the summit base and winds through some very interesting rocky terrain, prominent rock ribs, alpine meadows, construction zones, Pikes Peak road. You know, the usual stuff you see on a 14er. The trail also winds around Devils Playground. An area so named because of the high number of lightning strikes that this prominence receives.

Devil’s Playground. You Don't Want to be Here During a Thunder Storm, Unless You Want to be Turned Into Carbon.

We both tooled comfortably along this relatively easy and very scenic section. We chatted with some nice folks that we were leapfrogging on the trail and just generally enjoyed ourselves.

This Part of the Trail is a Scenic and Easy Cruise

Magnificent Rocks Ribs Cross the Trail

This section also parallels the road for short distances. It is really more odd than unpleasant. It just seams somehow wrong to see cars whizzing by kicking up dust and exhaust as they too struggle their way to the summit festivities.

Pikes Peak Road Just After Devil’s Playground. The Trails Wraps Around the Left of the Road and Heads Up the Hill.

Don and I continued along the obvious trail, which was punctuated by overly large and abundant cairns. I am not sure why the trail is so ridiculously well marked. I mean Erik Weihenmayer (http://www.touchthetop.com/) could follow this trail.

The Obvious Trail Marked by the Completely Unnecessary, Abundant, and Large Cairns With the Summit Towering in the Background

The two of us quickly crossed this final gentle section of the trail and made our way to the second and last steep section, the final summit push consisting of about 800 feet of rocky (but not technical) climbing to Pikes Peak summit.

The Base of the Final Pitch to the Summit

This final steep section is really your last grasp of “normal” 14er reality. At the top of this pitch, at the summit, things will change rather abruptly and somewhat unexpectedly.

The final pitch is typical steep summit-push boulders and talus. Its fun picking your way through the abundant cairns and the well formed trail.

Again, Giant Cairns Make Route Finding on the Final Pitch Somewhat Academic

So here you are picking your way up the trail laid into the red jagged rock of the summit. Passing cairns. Seeing people behind you struggling below up the same trail segments that you had just completed in the thin atmosphere at 14,000+ feet. Your thoughts turn towards the summit that is just 100 feet above you. As you continue to climb you look up to see where the next portion of the trail is and you see…A friggin guard rail. And the road.

The Last Bit of the Hike and the Visitor’s Center on the Summit Just Visible in the Left of the Image

As you push up over the last steep part you can finally see the complex at the summit that consists of an Army High Altitude Research building and the larger (huge really) Visitors Center.

Here is something You Don't See On Every 14er. Or really Any Other 14er. Cars, Tour Vehicles, Non-Athletic People Eating Donuts, and so on.

Don and I topped out over the edge and strolled across the parking lot (yes…parking lot) to the visitors center (VC) for a hardy bowl of soup/chili in a bread bowl and some of those world famous Pikes Peak donuts.

When we arrived at the VC it was absolutely packed with people. The Cog Railway train was in station. When the train left about 25 minutes later most of the people left and the VC was much less crowded.

Don pushed his way towards the counter to order lunch. I miraculously found a table and took off my pack and stowed gear.

It Really is Hard to Beat Soup in a Bread Bowl and the Donuts Really are Quite Good. Beats a Crescent Shaped Rock Shelter.

The soup was really quite good and the donuts excellent. I had the chicken noodle soup and Don had the chili. I must say that a carb laden bowl of soup hit the spot.

We both sat and ate and enjoyed the accommodations. The Cog Railway Train left and the VC cleared out. After we were done we wondered around the VC looking for souvenirs but found none. Finally we wondered outside to take the summit shot and then head down the mountain.

There Are Two of these Signs on the Summit, One in Front and Another in the Back. So if one of them has a line you can Just Try the Other Sign for that Memorable Summit Picture.

Rested and Well Fed. Now We Had to Get the Heck Off the Summit as Thunderstorms Drifted In

With the summit shot in the can, we noted that the weather had deteriorated rather quickly (as it so often does in the mountains) and we anxiously started to head past the Army Research Building and ultimately down the trail home.

Within a few minutes we heard the first peel of thunder. It was a ways off and appeared to come from an isolated cell south of the summit. I kept and eye on the cell and it was definitely moving away. However, the atmosphere was becoming less stable with the afternoon heating and we could tell there would be more storms.

For a good part of the hike from the summit base to near Devil’s Playground the weather was ok. But it became much more sinister quickly as we approached Devil’s Playground and the very exposed saddle that we still had to cross.

At one point Don looked out and observed that the weather now looked like Wizard of Oz $#@&!. And it did. With the weather closing in we finally crossed the saddle and headed rapidly down towards to tree line.

It rained lightly and there was quite a bit of distant lightning and thunder. We dove down into tree line and relaxed a bit. At one point within tree line we were making relaxed conversation when there was a bright flash behind us and nearly instantaneous thunder. Both of us nearly browned out.

We decided to make double (or even triple) time and I did something I rarely do. I ran like a frightened school girl. I looked at my altimeter and noted that we were descending at 100 feet per minute.

To make a long story short we didn't get turned into carbon and actually that lighting bolt was the last close one we had that day. Don and I finished the hike and headed back to camp to pack up.

Over all with all the crazy stuff at the summit, Pikes is really a very interesting and scenic hike. Its no Wetterhorn, but it it has its own unique charms.

The GPS route below shows a total hiking distance of 13 miles and a bit over 4,000 feet of elevation gain.

GPS route for Pikes Peak from the Crags Campground